Building a console table yourself is not only cost-effective but also a great way to create a piece tailored to your home’s style and needs. This DIY design gives you a high-end, counter-height table with faux drawer detailing perfect for entryways, living rooms, or behind a sofa. It’s beginner-friendly and doesn’t require advanced woodworking equipment, though we’ll share pro-level tips you can choose to use.

Tools and Materials Checklist

Before you begin, gather all your tools and supplies for a smoother build:

Essential Materials

• 4 stair newel posts (to be used as legs)
• 1×6 pine boards (for apron and tabletop)
• Wood glue
• CA glue (for filling knots)
• Clamps
• Drawer pulls or knobs

Recommended Tools

• Pocket hole jig (optional)
• Router table with ½” chamfer bit (optional)
• Track saw or circular saw
• Straight edge or cutting guide
• Power drill with 3/16″ bit
• Sander (orbital or hand block)

Lumber Cut List

Piece	Quantity	Dimensions	Purpose
Front/Back Apron	2	1×6, 51″ long	Frame structure
Side Apron	2	1×6, 12″ long	Frame structure
Tabletop Boards	3	1×6, 60″ long	Glued top surface
Table Legs	4	Stair posts, 34″	Table support
Cross Supports	2	2×2, 12″ long (opt.)	Added base stability

Step 1: Trim and Shape the Table Legs

Start by cutting your stair newel posts down to size. Standard console tables sit at around 30″, but for this build, we’re going with a counter-height version, about 34″ for better presence in larger or sunken rooms.

Optional Enhancements

• Use a ½” chamfer bit on the bottom edges to soften and style the squared post ends.
• Sand the legs thoroughly, especially if repurposing old stair posts.
  

Step 2: Cut Apron Boards to Size

With your frame measurements finalized, cut the side and front apron boards accordingly:

• Front/Back: 51″
• Sides: 12″

Make sure all edges are straight, especially if you’re using a circular saw—use a guide to avoid wavy lines.

Step 3: Join Frame Boards to Legs

You can choose between two joinery options:

Mortise and Tenon (For Strength)

• Cut two 4″ mortises into each leg using a plunge router or chisel.
• Cut matching tenons at the ends of each apron board.

Pocket Hole Joinery (Faster Option)

• Trim apron lengths by 2″ to make up for lost tenon space.
• Drill pocket holes and use screws and glue to attach aprons to legs.

Either method works well depending on your tools and timeline.

Step 4: Carve Faux Drawer Fronts

To create the illusion of three drawers:

• Use a track saw or circular saw with a depth stop.
• Make two vertical cuts ⅛” deep on the front apron.
• Space the cuts evenly to divide the panel visually into three sections.

This trick gives a custom cabinet feel without the extra labor of real drawers.

Step 5: Assemble the Table Frame

Apply wood glue to the joints and assemble the full frame. Clamp tightly, ensuring the structure is square.

Add Extra Stability

• Attach two 2×2 cross braces between the lower parts of the legs.
• Use Cyanoacrylate glue or screws depending on visibility and finish preference.

Step 6: Apply Finish to the Frame

Before adding the tabletop, paint or stain the frame:

Finishing Tips

• Apply primer if using paint (especially dark colors).
• Use a matte or satin topcoat for durability.
• Lightly sand between coats for a smooth finish.

Painting before attaching the top reduces the chance of drips and uneven edges.

Step 7: Build the Tabletop

Glue up three 1×6 boards edge to edge to form the tabletop.

Tabletop Assembly Tips

• Apply wood glue evenly along each edge.
• Use bar clamps or pipe clamps to ensure even pressure.
• Let dry for at least 4-6 hours.

Once dry, trim the ends using a straightedge and saw for even sides. Cut to a final length of around 55″.

Step 8: Detail and Smooth the Top

Use a router to add a decorative edge like a chamfer or round-over. This softens the appearance and makes the table more polished.

Other Surface Enhancements

• Lightly sand the entire surface with 120-grit, then finish with 220-grit for smoothness.
• Optional: Torch the top for a weathered finish or add epoxy to knots for a glossy effect.

Step 9: Fill Any Voids or Knots

If using knotty or reclaimed wood, fill gaps with CA glue and accelerator spray.

Benefits of CA Glue:

• Fills deep gaps quickly
• Hardens in seconds with accelerator
• Sands flush without shrinking

Step 10: Attach the Top to the Base & Hardware

Set the top onto the base with a ½” overhang on all sides, except the back, where you can allow extra overhang to sit flush with a wall.

How to Secure the Top

• Add wood glue to the top of the legs.
• Drill pocket holes on the inside of apron boards and screw upward into the tabletop.
• Clamp for a tight fit and let it cure fully.

Use a power drill and 3/16″ bit to install drawer pulls or knobs into the spaces between your vertical saw cuts.

Mounting Tip

• Drill before attaching the front apron for cleaner holes.
• Measure twice to keep everything symmetrical and centered.

Optional Upgrades to Consider

Add more character to your table by:

• Swapping pine for walnut or oak
• Using reclaimed wood for a rustic look
• Adding a lower shelf between the legs
• Installing actual drawers in the apron

DIY Console Table Key Specs

Feature	Detail
Height	34″ (counter height)
Width	55″ tabletop
Depth	12″ apron boards
Legs	Stair newel posts (trimmed)
Build Time	3–5 hours
Skill Level	Beginner to Intermediate

You now have a fully functional, one-of-a-kind Console Table and you built it from scratch. Whether styled with books, plants, lamps, or kept clean and minimal, it’s a conversation piece with your craftsmanship at the center.

FAQs

1. How Do I Cut Apron Boards Straight?

To ensure your apron boards are cut straight, use a track saw or a circular saw with a straight edge guide. A guide helps avoid wavy lines and ensures precise cuts. If needed, check your cuts with a square to verify they are straight.

2. How Do I Make Sure My Table Legs Are Even?

Use a level to check the legs after cutting them to size. If you notice any unevenness, sand down the longer legs until they match. Also, double-check the height with a tape measure for consistency.

3. Can I Skip the Faux Drawer Carving?

Yes, you can skip the faux drawer carving if you prefer a simpler design. However, carving them adds a custom, high-end look without the complexity of building real drawers. It’s a simple but impactful detail.