How to Install a Murphy Bed Like a Pro: The Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Installing a Murphy bed is a serious home improvement project, but with clear guidance, the right tools, and careful teamwork, it’s manageable even for confident DIYers. This guide mirrors the workflow used by professional installers , detailed, efficient, and precise , so you can achieve a perfectly aligned, safe, and durable result.

Preparation Before Assembly

Clear a large working area and protect your floor with cardboard or a blanket. Murphy beds require space for layout and lifting, so never attempt this in cramped quarters. Ideally, have a second person available throughout the build.

Tools and Materials You’ll need:

• Power drill with various drill bits
• Screwdriver
• Ratchet set: 5/16″, 7/16″, and 13 mm sockets
• Matching wrenches (7/16″ and 13 mm)
• Tape measure and pencil
• Stud finder
• Level and ladder
• Silicone lubricant
• Safety gear: gloves and glasses

Installer Tip: Keep your hardware sorted in trays labeled screws, washers, bolts, brackets, misc. You’ll thank yourself when you reach the mechanical steps.

Step 1: Unpack and Organize All Components

Unpack each box carefully and remove protective film only when necessary. Lay panels on a soft surface, banded edges facing up.
Typical parts include:

• Crown molding and two side panels
• Headboard, toe kick, and back stiffener
• Two large face panels
• Steel bed frame
• Mechanism arms and spring units
• Three L-brackets for wall anchoring
• Two folding legs with connecting rod
• Cover caps, bumpers, and safety sticker

Inspect every board and confirm pre-drilled holes are clean. If a panel looks slightly warped, store it flat until you install it , the frame tension usually straightens minor bends.

Step 2: Build the Main Cabinet Frame

This is the outer structure that holds the entire bed. Accuracy here determines how easily the bed will open and close later.

1. Position and connect the crown molding between the left and right side panels. Use 2½-inch wood screws in pre-drilled holes, keeping all joints flush and square.
2. Attach the headboard, toe kick, and back stiffener with small steel brackets and ⅝-inch screws. The unbanded edges should face the floor or rear wall.
3. Tighten evenly , do not overdrive screws. Once complete, the cabinet should resemble an open rectangular box.

Check alignment: Measure diagonally from corner to corner. If both measurements are equal, your cabinet is square.

Step 3: Anchor the Cabinet to the Wall

Murphy beds rely on wall studs for stability , not drywall. This step ensures the structure can support both its own weight and that of the sleeper.

• Use a stud finder to locate three solid studs across the width of the bed. Mark their centers with a pencil.
• Position the cabinet against the wall and confirm it’s level.
• Attach L-brackets at the top of the inside cabinet rail. Use:
  • 1⅜-inch screws for the cabinet side
  • 2½-inch wood screws for the stud connection
• Tighten brackets firmly, starting with the center, then the two ends.

Important: You should feel solid resistance when drilling into studs. If not, reposition. A missed stud can cause structural failure once the bed is in motion.

Step 4: Prepare and Assemble the Bed Face and Frame

Lay both large face panels on the floor, unfinished sides upward.

• Align edges and secure together with connecting screws.
• Place the steel bed frame on the backside of the joined panels.
• Measure ¼ inch from the panel’s bottom edge for correct vertical spacing.
• Fasten using ⅝-inch screws through the frame’s slots into the wood.

Then install the cross braces or “membranes.” These strengthen the platform and prevent panel flexing. Space them evenly from head to toe and tighten all hardware.

Step 5: Install the Headboard and Lower Supports

Flip the cabinet upright again. Secure the headboard inside the lower section using ⅝-inch screws through pre-drilled holes.
Adding the toe kick across the front bottom edge increases rigidity and helps align the bed face later.
Once installed, ensure the interior looks square and clean, with all screws sitting flush.

Step 6: Attach Hook-and-loop fastener, Caps, and Trim 

Some Murphy bed systems include Hook-and-loop fastener to secure bedding or mattress corners.

• Attach each strap with a washer and small screw at the top edge behind the front panels.
• Don’t overtighten they should flex slightly for easy wrapping.
• Snap cover caps into unused screw holes for a cleaner appearance.

This is also a good stage to pre-fit handles or knobs if your model includes them, avoiding drilling once the bed is vertical.

Step 7: Assemble and Attach the Legs

Each leg consists of a rod, plastic washers, and locking hardware. Follow this sequence:

1. Slide one plastic washer onto the rod.
2. Insert the leg, followed by the second plastic washer.
3. Add a steel washer and a lock washer.
4. Secure with the provided nut.

Tighten using a wrench and socket until firm. The legs must move freely but without wobble. Check both sides for identical resistance.

Step 8: Install and Tension the Lifting Mechanism

This step controls the bed’s counterbalance , the part that makes lifting feel nearly weightless.

• Hand-insert the 13 mm bolts and nuts through the third hole on each hinge arm.
• Use the PVC tension rod or lever included to pull the mechanism backward carefully.
• Keep pressure with your foot at the bed base while a helper locks the spring by inserting the tension pin with a screwdriver.
• Repeat on the other side.

Safety Reminder: Always work slowly and keep fingers clear of the hinge area. These springs carry significant tension.

Step 9: Connect the Bed Frame to the Mechanism

1. Lift the completed bed face and frame assembly with help.
2. Align hinge holes with the mechanism slots.
3. Insert bolts (through hole #2) from inside outward and hand-tighten the nuts.
4. Slowly open the bed fully to ensure smooth motion.
5. Once balanced, tighten all four bolts securely using the 13 mm ratchet and wrench.

You should now have a working pivot where the bed raises and lowers evenly without scraping the cabinet.

Step 10: Fine-Tune Alignment and Balance

Even perfect installations need small adjustments.

• Check side reveals: When closed, the gap between bed face and cabinet sides should be even. If not, gently shift the lower section left or right.
• Adjust spring tension: If the bed feels heavy to lift, increase spring tension. If it rises too quickly, reduce it slightly.
• Lubricate bearings at both top and bottom pivot points.
• Test multiple times until it opens smoothly, stopping halfway on its own.

Installer’s Rule: A balanced Murphy bed stays steady at about a 45-degree angle.

Step 11: Add Handles, Bumpers, and Safety Labels

• Choose handle placement that avoids hidden cross supports. Pre-drill pilot holes carefully.
• Insert soft plastic bumpers at each top corner and beneath the legs to cushion contact points.
• Affix the caution sticker visibly at the panel center. It reminds users to:
  • Extend legs before lowering.
  • Remove face panels before detaching wall anchors.

This small step ensures safety and compliance with manufacturer guidelines.

Step 12: Insert the Mattress and Perform Final Checks

1. Lay the mattress on the frame and fasten any retention straps.
2. Open and close the bed a few times to confirm balance.
3. Inspect all fasteners once more , cabinet to wall, hinge bolts, and bracket screws.
4. Mount the side covers over spring mechanisms. They prevent pinching hazards and complete the clean look.

It’s ready to use!

Maintenance and After-Installation Advice

A Murphy bed requires little upkeep but benefits from occasional checks:

• Lubricate moving parts every six months.
• Re-tighten screws once or twice a year.
• Inspect wall anchors annually to ensure no movement.
• Never exceed the mattress weight recommended by the manufacturer.

A well-maintained Murphy bed can last 15–20 years with daily use.

When Everything’s Working Smoothly

Once your Murphy Bed Frame folds up flush and glides down effortlessly, you’ll realize you’ve just built one of the most space-efficient pieces of furniture possible. You’ve combined carpentry, mechanics, and patience all in a single project. And if anyone ever doubts your DIY skills? Just pull an entire bed out of the wall to prove them wrong.

FAQs

1. How do I ensure my Murphy bed is securely anchored to the wall?

Use a stud finder to locate solid studs across the width of the bed. Attach L-brackets to the top of the cabinet and secure them to the studs with 2½-inch wood screws. Always check for solid resistance when drilling into studs to avoid a weak hold.

2. What should I do if the Murphy bed is hard to lift or lower after installation?

Check the spring tension on both sides of the bed. If it feels heavy to lift, increase the tension, and if it rises too quickly, reduce it slightly. Lubricate the pivot points to ensure smooth motion and adjust the balance until it opens and closes effortlessly.

3. How do I prevent creaking noises from my Murphy bed?

Creaking is often caused by slightly loose bolts. Inspect all fasteners, particularly those connecting the bed frame to the wall and mechanism, and tighten any that feel loose. Regular checks and tightening help keep the bed quiet.

4. Can I install a Murphy bed by myself, or do I need help?

While it’s possible to install a Murphy bed solo, having a second person can make the job easier, especially when lifting the heavy panels and aligning the bed frame. It’s essential for safety and accuracy, particularly when anchoring the cabinet to the wall.